Our latest work on Self-Shaping Textiles can be seen as part of the exhibition >>Design Lab #13: MATERIAL LEGACIES<< at the Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin, accessible from the 03rd November 2022 until the 26th February 2023.

The exhibition, curated by Michaela Büsse and Emile de Visscher, explores contingencies and ruptures between traditional crafts and the most recent developments at the crossroads of material research, design, engineering, and architecture. It brings together artifacts from the museum’s collection with work-in-progress installations by designers and researchers from the Cluster of Excellence »Matters of Activity. Image Space Material« in order to initiate a dialogue about the historical, contemporary, and future conditions under which materiality unfolds.

SELF-SHAPING TEXTILES: Agata Kycia & Lorenzo Guiducci

Our project focuses on creating meter-scale surface structures by transforming 2D surfaces into 3D wrinkled structures. Inspired by morphogenetic processes in plant leaves, we propose using 3D printing on pre-stretched textiles as an alternative, material based form-Šnding technique to obtain meter-scale surface structures for architectural elements such as facade panels and shading elements. In particular, we explore the design space of non-intersecting lines that self-organize into visually complex macroscopic patterns and surface textures upon fabric tension relaxation. In their morphed state, these textiles exhibit various optical and elastic properties promoting numerous visual and tactile sensations for the spectator.

The large format prints featured in Design Lab #13: Material Legacies are both an opportunity to establish a dialogue with the spectator while constituting “fieldwork” experiments to test the efect of additional external conditions (i.e., the shaping impact of residual tensioning due to the fabric weight). Similarly, the the dress by Madame Grès stages a dialogue between pure fabric and external conditions, represented by the female body. A new perception of the female body and femininity is achieved by stripping the dress of all traditional tailoring solutions and customs. Remarkably, in both our and Madame Grès’ work, what seems “simple” conceals a much more complex phenomenon (the self-shaping of the textile as active matter) and deeper consideration of all aspects at play (light, sound, gravity, space, body, customs).

“We want to put our work (…) to create space for discussions on textile materiality and, specifically,
the future role of textiles in fashion, architecture, and technology.”

More information about the exhibition is available at the MoA Website.

The exhibition opening included an introduction by Dr. Claudia Banz, Curator of Design at the Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin, Prof. Dr. Claudia Mareis, co-director of the Cluster of Excellence »Matters of Activity. Image Space Material, as well as the exhibition curators. The event was part of the Berlin Science Week 2022.

DATES: 3.11.2022–26.2.2023

LOCATION: Kunstgewerbemuseum der Staatlichen Museen zu Berlin
Matthäikirchplatz
10785 Berlin

Exhibition Poster © Matters of Activity

Pic. Exhibition opening, Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin

Pic. Large-scale prototype of 3D printed pattern on pre-stretched fabric (Agata Kycia & Lorenzo Guiducci). The piece is one meter wide and seven meters long